Sufferings In Africa

by James Riley

Chapter XXX

Of the Muors and Moorish Arabs—Feast of expiation — A Moorish review , and sham-fight — Horsemanship — of the Arabian horse and his furniture.

The Moors are a stout athletic race of men, and generally of about five feet ten inches in height. They sprung from the Bereberies, or old inhabitants of north and western parts of northern Africa, together with the descendants of the Carthaginians, and various Greek and Roman colonies on those coasts, conquered by and commixed with the Arabs or Saracens who passed the Isthmus of Suez, and subjugated the north of Africa under the caliphs of the pretended prophet Mohammed. Fez is at present the great capital of the empire and chief residence of the emperor, who is styled by the Moors and Arabs el Sultan , (the Sultan) or as they pronounce it, Sooltan. Suse has become independent of the Moors. The Moors are all strict followers of the Mohammedan doctrine, and firm predestinarians. I call the doctrine Mohammedan instead Mahometan, because the name of their prophets is pronounced, both by the Moors and Arabs, Mohammed , and both of them pronounce their letters very distinctly, and with their mouths open like the Spaniard, giving to every letter its full sound; for though they write with characters, and do not know how to form a Roman letter with a pen, yet a person understanding letters, who hears them speak, would say they were perfectly familiar with the Roman alphabet, and laid more emphasis and stress on the letters, by means of which they speak their language better than any other people on earth.

The Moors, in general, do not learn to read and write, but their Talbs are learned men, who take great pains to become acquainted with the principles of their own and the ancient Arabic language, and with the laws of the Koran, which is held by them to be a sacred book, and to contain nothing but divine revelation. The Talbs transact all the business that requires writing, and serve alternately as scriveners, lawyers, and priests. The Moors use no bells for their places of worship, but in the towns and cities, their religious houses have high minarets or steeples, with flat tops and a kind of balustrade round them : to the tops of these the Talbs ascend to call the people at stated times to prayers, and as the steeples are very high, and the Talbs are accustomed to call aloud, they are heard at a great distance, particularly when all is still in the city. Their times of prayers are before daylight in the morning, at about mid-day, about the middle of the afternoon, at sunset, and again before they retire to rest, about 8 or 9 o’clock in the evening. The Talbs who are on the steeples before daylight in the morning, commence by calling all the faithful to prayers: their voices, sound most harmoniously, and thrill through the air in a singular manner. I was always awakened by them myself while I staid at Mogadore, and often went to the window to hear th^m; their call reminded me of my duty also. After they summoned all the faithful to attend prayers, they either rehearsed particular passages from their Bible or Koran, or sang some sacred poetry with a loud and piercing, but at the same time a very melodious and pleasing tone of voice. The Moors who live near the places of worship go in, join with the Talbs and pray together, but by far the greater number perform their devotions in their own rooms. The Talbs, I am informed, perform their religious duties, which are very fatiguing, merely from motives of piety—they do not receive the smallest remuneration either from the prince or people in any shape or way whatever. All worship by turning their faces to the east, and bow their heads in the dust like the wandering Arabs: they wash their bodies all over with water before prayers,aswellas their hands and faces; for which purposes, within the walls of their mosques or churches, they have walls or fountains of water, and large stone basons in which to bathe. When they appear before'God, (as they call it) in their places of worship, they divest themselves of all superfluous ornaments and clothing, and even of their breeches; after purifying with, water, they wrap themselves decently up in their haick or blanket only, and go through their ceremonies with signs of the most profound devotion. If a Christian enters a Mohammedan place of worship, he must either change his religion, by having his head shaved, undergoing the operation of circumcision, and confessing there is but one God, and that Mohammed is his holy prophet, &c. or suffer instant death—but I have ventured to look into them from the street. The court leading to the mosque was paved with tiles, and kept very clean, with stone basons filled with pure water on each side for the purposes of purification; though I durstnot approach so near as to see in what manner the interior part was arranged, but I was informed they were entirely free from ornaments. The women are not generally permitted to enter their houses of religious worship, nor even to appear in the streets, unless they are completely covered by their clothing, which going over their heads, is held in such a manner by then- hands on the inside, as only to permit them to peep out with one eye, to discover and pick their way; so that no Moor or Christian can see their faces. In the streets, they are very seldom seen, and are so extremely fleshy, that they waddle, rather than walk along, like fat and clumsy ducks. No Moor will marry a wife until she is well fatted by her father, and if it is not in the husband’s power afterwards to keep her in the same good case and condition, or rather, to improve upon it, he is dissatisfied, and endeavours to get clear of her, which he very often effects, for he will not keep a wife unless she is very fleshy, or bed with what he calls “ a death skeleton .” The women visit each other, and walk together on the tops of their houses, but even the husband cannot enter the room they are in when uncovered, or get a sight of his neighbour’s wife or daughter, being strictly forbidden by his religion to look on any other woman than his own wife or wives:—thus the Moors, when they receive company, sit down with them on the ground outside of their houses, where they converse together; but notwithstanding all these precautions, as the women are very amorous, they manage to introduce their gallants by means of the female covering, and the privilege they enjoy of visiting each other, and get their lovers off by the same means undiscovered.

The Moors go off in* large numbers every year, forming a great caravan, on a pilgrimage to Mecca, and return in three or four years; every Moslemin being by law obliged to visit the tomb of his prophet once in his life-time, if he can afford to pay the expenses of his journey. The men who have been to Mecca, and returned, are dignified by the name of el ajjh, (or the pilgrim) and the women who go and return, (for there are a few who venture,) are allowed the privilege of wearing the haick, or man’s blanket; of walking the streets uncovered, like men, and of conversing \Vith them promiscuously, as they may deem fit, being considered holy women, and as possessing souls by special grace and favour. Every Moor, who is born an idiot, or becomes delirious, is considered a saint, and is treated with the greatest attention and respect by every one; is clojthed, and fed, and taken the greatest care of by the whole community; and, do what he will, he cannot commit a crime in the eye of their law.

Soon after my arrival at' Mogadore, about the 15th of November, 1815, the feast of expiation was celebrated by the Moors, at which every Mohammedan is by law obliged to kill a sheep, if it is possible for him to procure one; if not, each kills such other animal as he can obtain: the rich (if liberal) kill a number proportioned to their wealth and inclination, and distribute them amongst their relations, or the poor who have none to kill. Rais bel Cossim (i. e. Captain bel Cossim) killed seven sheep: they had been bought long before, and were well fatted for the purpose: the first day of the feast was spent in visiting, and in giving and receiving presents or gifts; and the second in military parade. On the morning of that day, I accompanied Mr. Willshire to the top of a house, formerly occupied by a Mr. Chiappi, deceased, who was the Portuguese Consul at Mogadore, for many years: this house was, before it went to decay, the largest and most elegant in that city; it stood near, and overlooked the eastern wall: from that place, we saw from thirteen to fifteen hundred Arabian horses, fleet as the wind, and full of fire, mounted by Moors and Arabs, who sat on strong Moorish saddles that came up high before and behind, covered with rich quilted scarlet broadcloth. They were paraded between the outer and main walls of the city—the horsemen were dressed with red caftans or vests, not generally worn by them, except on great occasions : these were covered with worsted haicks, wove transparent like bunting for ships’ flags: each rider was armed with a long Moorish musket, and had a knife or scimitar hanging loosely by his side: they wore on their head^, either white turbans twisted and wound many times around, or a red cap, in token of their being regular imperial soldiers, or else a fold of their haick: their bridle bits were the most powerful of the Arabian kind. The horses were all studs, and wore their whole natural quantity of main and tail unmutilated in any part, and consequently retained all their natural fire, beauty, strength, and pride: each horse was furnished with a head-piece, resembling the stall of a bridle at top, and a halter below-r-this stall or head-piece, was made of the richest scarlet cord and velvet, with fringe hanging down over, and nearly covering his eyes, and a large pendulous pad of scarlet velvet cloth under each ear : the neck of each was adorned with a very elegant scarlet cord, having a haridsome knob and tassal underneath: these trappings were solely for ornament, and not for use, and put on before the bridle. Each had, besides, a small red cord about his neck, to which was fastened a number of little bags, made of fine red Morocco leather—these bags, I learned on inquiry, were stuffed with scraps of paper, covered with Arabic writing, furnished to the owner of the horse by jugglers; and, as they pretend, serve as a charm to ward off the effects of “ evil eyes” or witchcraft, in which they all believe : the Moors and Arabs are so firmly attached to this superstitious opinion, that they believe both themselves and their horses are in imminent danger without this favourite charm.

The Moorish and Arabian saddle, which I consider to be the very best that can be invented by man to keep the rider steady in his seat, is fastened on by a strong girth under the horse’s belly, and by one round his breast, but without any crupper: the stirrups are made of broad pieces of sheet iron or brass, and for the most part plated with silver—the bottom of them is as long as a man’s foot, so that he can shift the position of his feet in them at pleasure: they are kept exceedingly bright, and are taken up short and tied to the saddle by braided leather thongs; so that in order to support himself firmly in his saddle, the rider has only to press his feet to the horse’s sides, near his flanks; his knees on the lower part of the saddle ; thus resting at five points at one and the same time. The bridle is of that kind which will either stop the fiercest horse in an instant, or snap off his lower jaw—so that the rider has his horse under the most perfect command possible. This body of horsemen, thus mounted and equipped, were reviewed by the Bashaw and Alcayd, or military and civil governors: there were also five or six thousand foot soldiers assembled for the same purpose : these were dressed in haicks and red caps, and armed with muskets and daggers.

After the review, the exercises began by a discharge of seventy-four pieces of cannon, mounted on the different batteries about the city, and then followed a ki^td of sham-fight, which was begun near the norZnern gate, between two bodies of infantry: they marched forward to the attack, and each poured in an irregular fire, which was supported and kept up in almost one continual blaze by successive advancing lines, until it seemed necessary to bring forward the heavy cavalry, in order to arrest the progress of a solid column of men, that* kept slowly and constantly advancing upon the opposing troops. The expected signal was at length given: the whole of the cavalry was instantly in motion: it advanced in squadrons of about one hundred, in close order, and at full speed, and seemed to fly like the wind : the distance between the opposing forces, was near half a mile: the horsemen shouting loudly, “ hah-hah! hah-hah /” raised themselves on .their stirrups, took a deliberate aim with their long muskets, when within five yards of the enemy’s lines, and poured in their fire while going at their greatest speed. I expected they would inevitably dash in amongst the infantry, and trample many of them to death; but the moment the men had fired, they brought their horses down upon their haunches, and stopping them short, reined them instantly round, to make room for the next approaching squadron, while the horses of the first squadron walked steadily and leisurely back, giving time for the riders to reload their muskets at their ease: thus furiously attacked by numerous squadrons, in quick succession, and so closely, the infantry was soon broken and dispersed, by which means the cavalry remained apparent masters of the field.

Nothing of the kind could exceed the ardour, activity, and intelligence, displayed by those noble looking horses; they seemed almost to fly to the attack, and looked as if determined to rush through the opposing host, and trample it to atoms; but when the riders had fired their muskets, and the horses were turned about the other way, they were perfectly calm in an instant, and walked on leisurely until they were again faced round, towards the enemy ; then their eyes seemed to kindle with fire; they pawed up the dust, which they seemed to snuff up into thpir wide-stretched nostrils, and into which one might see, as they then appeared, nearly up to their eyes: they snorted and pranced about in such a manner, that nothing short of the heavy and true Arabian bridle could have been capable of checking or keeping them in subjection, and nothing short of the Moorish or Arabian saddle, could have prevented their riders from being dashed against the ground. The long spurs of the horsemen had gored their flanks, so as to make the blood stream out, which, uniting with their sweat, formed a kind of streaked froth, that nearly covering their sides, dropped fast upon the ground, whilst the severe working of the bit upon their mouths, caused them to bleed profusely. The dazzling of their stirrups and arms i» the sun, the rattling of their spurs against their stirrups, and the clashing of their arms against each ether; the beautiful appearances of the squadrons captain riley’s narrate. of horses; the cracking of musketry, ^ncl continual shoutings of the mock combatants, proceed an effect truly imposing, and I was of opinion that no lines of infantry, of equal numbers, howeve- well formed and commanded, would be capable of withstanding their impetuous and repeated shocks, when actually attacked: this was truly a superL school for horsemanship.

Sidi Hamet, my old master, had borrowed\ n( { mounted Mr. Willshire’s fine horse, and seemed^ be in all his glory while, exercising him like th others. After they had nearly finished the sham fight, he, together with a line of Moors, consisting of about fifteen or twenty, commenced their last career towards the enemy: they had a quarter of a mile, to ride, and all with long muskets* in their hands: they set off their’ horses at full speed, in a line, when on their seats; then turning over, they placed their heads upon their saddles, and rode with their feet in the air, and their backs towards the horses’ heads for a considerable part of the distance; then regaining their seats by a sudden mov"ement, they rose in their stirrups, fired off their pieces close to the wall, reined their horses around, and returned again to their post. Many of these horses were extremely fleet and beautiful, and seemed as much to exceed in spirit, strength, and courage, the first-rate race horses I had ever seen in Europe or America, as those fine animals excel the common old plough horse.

The Moors soon wear their horses down by hard service, and then put them into mills to grind their grain, as there is scarcely such a thing as a wind or water-mill wherewith to grind their breadstuff, to be found in the Moorish empire. The mares are never rode or worked, and are kept solely for the purpose of breeding, and I found that what I had considered as an exaggerated account of the good qualities attributed to the Arabian horse, fell far short of his real merits; for, though the most proud, fierce, and fiery of the horse kind, he is, at the same time, the' most docile of those noble animals. The true Arabian horse is about fourteen hands in height; his body is long, round, and slender; his limbs small, clean, and straight; he is square- breasted and round-quartered; his neck well set and slim, with a beautiful natural curve; his head small, with a face inclining to a curve, from the top of the head to the nostrils, with eyes full, bright, quick, and intelligent—many of them are of a beautiful cream colour, and frequently spotted with black, and vary in colour from a light sorrel, through all the shades of bay and chesnut, to the deepest jet black; they are strong jointed, and full of sinew: they are naturally docile, and very active; but if they become in the least vicious, they are doomed to the mill for the remainder of their days. It was with much regret I learned that these beautiful and serviceable animals could not be exported from either the Moorish dominions, or any other of the Barbary States, without a special permission, as a private favour, from the reigning prince, which is very seldom granted, and only on particular and important occasions.

The Arabs inhabiting Morocco, live in tents, m a wandering state: for the true Arabs will not be confined within walls, and are a distinct race of men from the Moors. They keep large herds of cattle, horses, camels, sheep, goats, and asses, making use of the milk of all the females for butter and for drink: they supply the cities* with butter, which they make by the simple process of putting the milk into a goat-skin, the hair side in, hanging it up by the legs, and shaking it by the help of a rope, by which it is fastened; when the butter is made, they pack it, hair and all, into earthen jars that hold from two to four pounds each, and in that state, carry it to market without salting, selling the butter, jar, and all, for a mere trifle: they cultivate nearly all the plain land that is cultivated in the empire of Morocco, (as the Bcreberies till the hilly country and sides of the mountains,) except the grounds in the immediate vicinity of the cities, which they do not approach for the purposes of agriculture, those being cultivated and dressed by the Moors and their slaves. They live in families or sections of tribes, and pitch their tents in companies of from twenty to one hundred and fifty tents, each tent containing one family: these tents, when pitched, are called a Dotihar; they elect a chief to each of these dou- liars, whom they dignify with the title of Alcayd or Sheick, for the time being: their authority, however, is rather of an advisory than mandatory kind. Near seed time, they remove and pitch their douhar (or encampment) near the spot they mean to cultivate, and plough and sow the land with wheat. barley, corn, or peas: they fence in some parcels of land with good high stone fences, particularly orchards of fig-trees, but for^ the most part they are entirely open; the sowing being finished, they remove again, for the sake of pasture, to other parts of the same province, in which they continue to reside, as they cannot move out of a province without leave being first obtained from the emperor—thus they wander from place to place, until near harvest time; when they return and gather in their crops which they have sowed, and which are considered safe from the flocks, herds, and hands of other tribes, by common consent or interest, as all rove about in a similar way, having no fixed habitations; yet sometimes one tribe sows, and another reaps the fruit of its labour, but that is only done by force of arms.

The Moorish Arabs are rather below the middle stature; of a dark complexion, resembling that between the mulatto and a white man, with long black hair and black eyes; they are strong and healthy: they wear round their bodies a woollen haick, which does not cover their heads, and go without any other clothing; their legs and feet are generally bare; their beards long; their cheek-bones high; their noses nhgularly hooked; their lips thin; and they are as hardy a race of men as exists; perhaps, indeed, with the exception of the wandering Arabs. The women wear a kind of a garment made of a haick, through which they thrust their arms to keep it up—it hangs down to their knees, and nearly covers their breasts; they have a fold behind, like those living on the desart, in which they carry their young children; they all stoop forward very much and are treated by their husbands as mere necessary slaves; are obliged to milk the cows, camels, mares, goats, sheep, and asses; make the butter, and spin and weave the tent-cloth and clothing by hand for themselves and families. They both spin and weave in the same mauner as the Arab women of the desart, and bring all the water they use, in large pitchers on their shoulders, let the distance be ever se great: they take care of, and help to draw the water for the flocks of sheep, and goats, and herd* of cattle; but the men manage the camels and horses. They grind their wheat and barley in their hand-mills, which are the same as on the desart and in Suse, as already described, and they make cakes, which they roast in the fire. The women are, in fact, complete slaves: they are obliged to strike their tents when they remove, and pack them on camels, with all the other stuff that is possessed by the family; to pitch the tent again, and pack away the stuff, &c. &c. while the men take upon themselves to lord it over them, and drive them about at pleasure, only looking after the flocks and herds, and punishing the women and girls, if any are lost: the men also plough and sow the land, and attend t* the reaping and threshing out the corn. The sickle > they reap with, is nothing more than a knife with a blade of about a foot long, with the point bent inwards: the principal part of the labour in this business, they also oblige the women to perform.

Their law permits them to have seven wives, but it is recommended to them by their prophet to have only one, in order to prevent contention in the family. When they increase, however, in wealth or substance, they need more help, and instead of hiring or buying slaves, they take more wives; and on this economical and agreeable plan, they make out to manage the affairs of their household. They are the same race of people in appearance and manners, as the Arabs of the desart, and have bartered their liberty for the comforts afforded by a Country susceptible of cultivation- The Arabs are said to have continued migrating gradually from the de- sarts and other parts of Arabia into Africa, ever since the irruptions of the first Saracens, by joining themselves in small numbers to the returning caravans which go yearly from Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, &c. on a pilgrimage to visit the tomb of their prophet at Mecca. These caravans carry large quantities of goods with them, and make a trading trip of it, as well as a religious duty; and many of the pilgrims return home very rich for Moors.